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macOS is the operating system that powers every Mac. It lets you do things you simply can’t with other computers. That’s because it’s designed specifically for the hardware it runs on — and vice versa.
iCloud safely and securely stores your photos, videos, documents, messages, music, apps, and more — and keeps them updated across all your devices. So you always have access to what you want, wherever you want it.
Keep your growing library organized and accessible. Perfect your images and create beautiful gifts for sharing. And with iCloud Photo Library, you can store a lifetime’s worth of photos and videos in the cloud.
Tell stories like never before. A simple design and intuitive editing features make it easy to create beautiful 4K movies and Hollywood-style trailers. And with iMovie Theater, you can enjoy them on all your devices.
GarageBand
The easiest way to create great-sounding songs on your Mac. With an intuitive interface and access to a complete sound library, it’s never been easier to learn, play, record, and share music like a pro.
This powerful word processor gives you everything you need to create documents that look beautiful. And read beautifully. It lets you work seamlessly between Mac and iOS devices. And work effortlessly with people who use Microsoft Word.
Create sophisticated spreadsheets with dramatic interactive charts, tables, and images that paint a revealing picture of your data. Work seamlessly between Mac and iOS devices. And work effortlessly with people who use Microsoft Excel.
Bring your ideas to life with beautiful presentations. Employ powerful tools and dazzling effects that keep your audience engaged. Work seamlessly between Mac and iOS devices. And work effortlessly with people who use Microsoft PowerPoint.
Safari has all kinds of innovative features that let you enjoy more of the web. Energy-saving technologies let you surf longer. Built-in privacy is stronger than ever. You can browse seamlessly across all your devices. And it’s easy to share your favorite pages.
Final Cut Pro X
Built to meet the needs of today’s creative editors, Final Cut Pro offers revolutionary video editing, powerful media organization, and incredible performance optimized for Mac computers and macOS High Sierra.
Logic Pro X
Logic Pro puts a complete recording and MIDI production studio on your Mac, with everything you need to write, record, edit, and mix like never before. And with a huge collection of full-featured plug-ins along with thousands of sounds and loops, you’ll have everything you need to go from first inspiration to final master, no matter what kind of music you want to create.
Motion is a powerful motion graphics tool that makes it easy to create cinematic 2D and 3D titles, fluid transitions, and realistic effects in real time.
Compressor
Add power and flexibility for exporting projects from Final Cut Pro. Customize output settings, work faster with distributed encoding, and easily package your film for the iTunes Store. Compressor is the perfect companion for custom encoding.
MainStage 3
Take your Mac to the stage with a full-screen interface optimized for live performance, flexible hardware control, and a massive collection of plug-ins and sounds that are fully compatible with Logic Pro X.
Inspire creativity and curiosity in the classroom and beyond.
Get the power to take your business to the next level.OpenSCAD - Downloads
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Please find your desired file inside the folder.
The Programmers Solid 3D CAD Modeller
System requirements: Mac OS X 10.7 or newer
OpenSCAD is also available on :
$ sudo port install openscad
System requirements: Windows XP or newer on x86 32/64 bit
Debian / Ubuntu / Kubuntu
OpenSCAD is available in the repositories of recent distributions.
$ sudo apt-get install openscad
For Ubuntu users:
To update to the latest release add the following
before installing OpenSCAD:
$ sudo add-apt-repository ppa:openscad/releases
$ sudo apt-get update
OpenSCAD is available in Fedora official repositories. To install, run the following command:
# yum install openscad
If you want the MCAD library:
# yum install openscad-MCAD
Please note that you'll find OpenSCAD 2014.03 in Fedora 21 and lower. In case you'd like to use 2015.03 in Fedora 21, you can use .
OpenSCAD is available from
Arch Linux
# pacman -S openscad
Other Linux
The following generic binary Linux packages are available:
NetBSD (>=6.1)
and run this command:
# pkgin install openscad
FreeBSD (>=10)
# pkg install openscad
OpenSCAD is available for amd64, i386 and macppc in OpenBSD packages:
# pkg_add openscad
Other Systems
It's possible to build OpenSCAD on other systems as long as a C++ compiler and the prerequisite software libraries are available.
Source Code
You can also access the latest source code on github:
Development Snapshots
Development snapshots are built irregularly. If you want access to a more recent development snapshot, please contact the .
Please try the automatically built snapshots first if you are running a supported distribution
(see ), the following AppImage builds are still
experimental.
AppImages are currently not available due to some changes on OBS, hopefully that
will soon be resolved...
The packages are automatically built based on the
on github.
Note: The packages are called "openscad-nightly" so it's possible to install the development
snapshot packages in parallel to the release version from the official repositories.
Debian / Ubuntu packages built on
To install the packages, the release key must be added with apt-key to the key-ring to allow
apt-get / aptitude to validate the packages.
Key ID: 75FE08 (valid till )
Key UID: home:t-paul OBS Project &home:t-paul@build.opensuse.org&
NOTE: If you get errors about an expired key valid till , please re-import via the following command.
# wget -qO - http://files.openscad.org/OBS-Repository-Key.pub | sudo apt-key add -
After the key is added, the repository URL needs to be configured. This can be done by creating a new
file /etc/apt/sources.list.d/openscad.list with the URL specific to the distribution.
Debian 8 (Jessie)
deb http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/Debian_8.0/ ./
Debian 9 (Stretch)
deb http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/Debian_9.0/ ./
Debian Testing
deb http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/Debian_Testing_standard/ ./
Ubuntu 16.04
deb http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/xUbuntu_16.04/ ./
Ubuntu 16.10
deb http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/xUbuntu_16.10/ ./
Ubuntu 17.04
deb http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/xUbuntu_17.04/ ./
Ubuntu 17.10
deb http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/xUbuntu_17.10/ ./
openSUSE packages built on
openSUSE Leap 42.2
http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/openSUSE_Leap_42.2/
openSUSE Leap 42.3
http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/openSUSE_Leap_42.3/
openSUSE Tumbleweed
http://download.opensuse.org/repositories/home:/t-paul/openSUSE_Tumbleweed/
Fedora packages built on Copr
RPM repository with nightly OpenSCAD development snapshots on .
Arch Linux
To install OpenSCAD from git on Arch Linux the
is available on .
Prior Releases
Prior releases are available at75 PC-Building Tips: CPU & Heat Sink Installation - ComputerShopper.com
75 PC-Building Tips: CPU & Heat Sink Installation
Point to point: Match the arrow on the CPU socket with the one printed on the processor.
21. Make sure your processor is oriented properly!
Proper processor orientation within its socket, whether it's an AMD or Intel chip, is crucial. Be especially careful any time you're dealing with the Intel LGA775 socket, which contains 775 delicate pins ripe for bending. Place your Intel CPU into this socket carefully, lowering it in parallel to the board, and make sure the two notches in the socket and chip fit each other. Also, a pair of arrows, on the socket and chip, must point to each other. Never force the load plate (see Tip 23) and its locking lever down onto the chip--if it takes more than firm pressure, something's not installed properly.
The current AMD CPU sockets, Socket AM2 and Socket AM2+, have holes, with the pins resident on the chip. AM2 and AM2+ use a similar arrow scheme for orientation, but--as with LGA775--?the chip simply won't drop into its socket any way but the right way, so don't force it.
Easy reach: Installing the cooler with the motherboard outside the case gives you better access to the mounting points.
22. Cooler or motherboard: Which to install first?
Should you install the processor and CPU cooler onto the motherboard before installing the motherboard in the case? That depends on the design of the cooler. We find it easier to mount most coolers with the motherboard outside the case, since cooler-mounting hardware tends to require frustrating gyrations to get installed. (We're looking at you, Intel LGA775 posts.)
That said, having the board mounted on its standoffs gives it a stronger, more stable base to counteract the sometimes brutish pressure required to install a cooler. Examine the room available for installing your coo if you'll have a hard time reaching or seeing the cooler's base, install it with the board outside.
Lose the lid: If your motherboard uses an Intel 775 socket, remove the protective cover from the load plate before installing the CPU.
23. That CPU-socket cover needs to go.
Before you can install the CPU cooler, of course, you'll need to install the CPU. If you're installing an Intel CPU into an LGA775 socket, the socket will have a protective plastic cover shielding the pins inside the socket from damage. The cover will be clipped to the hinged frame (or "load plate") that surrounds the socket. This might be unfamiliar to PC-build veterans for whom LGA775 is the first "pinned" socket they've seen. (The norm has been for the pins to be on the chip.) Remove and discard the protective cover before installation--never install the CPU with the cover in place.
Brace yourself: A CPU retention plate mounts underneath the motherboard.
24. A CPU retention plate can throw a curveball at your install.
At the start of your PC build, and especially before you install your motherboard, check the CPU cooler's documentation. Some coolers require you to fasten a retaining plate underneath the board before you install the motherboard in the case. If you install the motherboard first, you'll just have to take it out again.
This plate contains screw holes that accept the posts or screws from the CPU cooler's heat sink. The motherboard is essentially sandwiched between the heat sink and the plate, with the plate helping accommodate the weight of the heat sink while reinforcing the board. Often, the motherboard comes with a piece of double-sided tape for holding the plate in place until you mount the heat sink--use it.
Uncool conflict: A CPU cooler may support your motherboard’s socket type, but onboard components sometimes get in the way.
25. Matchmake your cooler and motherboard before the big install.
Before installing a CPU cooler onto your motherboard--especially if it isn't the stock cooler that came with the chip--test-fit it, checking for clearance around the edges. Some CPU coolers and motherboards simply can't coexist, despite the fact that they support the same socket type. Depending on the motherboard design, capacitors, heat sinks for onboard chipsets, and the like can obstruct some particularly large cooler designs. If so, exchange the cooler for a different model--never bend onboard components to accommodate it.
Scratch this idea: Replace any used cooler that has a heavily marred contact plate.
26. Check the bottom of your CPU cooler for faults.
A CPU cooler's bottom surface, often copper, should if the cooler is a used one and the area is scratched or marred, heat transfer in those spots will be imperfect. Some enthusiasts "lap" their new coolers (polishing the bottoms with fine sandpaper atop a hard, flat surface, such as sheet glass) and even the tops of their CPUs to ensure perfect contact-surface smoothness, but we don' simply return to the seller any new cooler that has a defect visible on this surface.
Don't forget to remove any plastic protective film from the cooler bottom before installing. The bottom of the cooler should touch the top of the CPU, metal to metal (with, of course, thermal paste between them--more on that in Tip 29).
Pencil pusher: The tip of a mechanical pencil is perfect for straightening a bent pin.
27. How to restore a damaged CPU or socket.
Okay, so it happened: Our advice in Tip 21 fell on deaf ears, and a pin in the CPU socket, or on the CPU proper, got bent. Don't panic. Also, don't try to straighten it with just any tool--you might break the pin off or bend other pins in the process.
Instead, obtain a mechanical (or drafter's) pencil. It should have a tiny metal tube for a tip, through which it admits the pencil lead. Remove the lead and, in most cases, the empty tube tip will be the perfect size to fit over a bent pin, allowing you to straighten it with precision. This trick also works for bent pins on motherboard headers, or hard-drive or optical-drive edge connectors.
Processor Pilates: Prime95, a “CPU workout” utility, can heat up an old CPU to ease cooler removal.
28. Old thermal paste can hinder cooling performance.
If you're reusing a CPU cooler, it probably has remnants of old thermal paste on it. Also, if you botch installing your cooler and need to reseat it, you should clean off the old thermal paste and apply a fresh coat. (You want the layer between chip and cooler to be even, without blobs or bare patches.) Remove the old stuff thoroughly using rubbing alcohol and either a lint-free, nonabrasive cloth or paper towels. (Naphtha, which also evaporates quickly, works well, too, but use it sparingly.)
If the old cooler you're going to use is still installed in a working PC, you might first run a PC-stress-test app like Prime95 to heat up the CPU. (Prime95 is widely available by G once you install it, choose Options > Torture Test and run a "large FFT" test.) This can help soften up the old paste and make removal easier.
Also, clean the old cooler's fins and fan while you're at it--an old toothbrush and canned air work well. Dust caked into the heat sink will impede cooling performance.
Check out my pad: Certain coolers come with thermal unlike thermal paste, it only softens once heated.
29. Don't overapply thermal paste.
Unless your CPU comes with thermal material preapplied to its base (usually in the form of a waxy, square pad), you'll need to apply thermal paste to the CPU's top before installing the cooler. (The paste fills any microscopic grooves in the cooling surfaces, improving heat transfer away from the chip.) Some paste typically comes with the cooler, in a squeeze-out packet or tiny plunger-style applicator.
Start with a BB-size blob. Spread it with a stiff card and try to apply an even, almost transparent layer, removing any excess. (Don't slather it on like SPF30 sunblock.) Leave a millimeter or so around the chip's edge to prevent any excess from squeezing out when you press on the CPU cooler, and make sure the chip's core--the center area, which is the hottest-running part--is covered.
Generic advice: The ordinary thermal paste that comes with your CPU cooler should suffice, but overclockers might consider premium paste.
30. Third-party thermal paste has its ins and outs.
Don't expect miracles from aftermarket thermal paste, as opposed to the generic goop that comes with most coolers--you won't shave off more than a few degrees, tops, with the premium stuff. Also note that some pastes are electrically conductive,
if you're buying some, we strongly recommend the latter, in case any stray blobs find their way onto motherboard circuitry.
Also, be very aware of the difference between thermal paste and thermal adhesive. (Arctic Silver, maker of the most popular aftermarket thermal pastes, makes both.) Thermal adhesive, which is essentially a combination of thermal paste and superglue for sticking heat sinks onto chips, is not recommended for CPU coolers. (Not to mention, the bond is permanent.)
Hot corner: Fasten your four-poster CPU cooler in one corner, then lock down the post or screw diagonally opposite.
31. Always fasten down a four-poster CPU cooler crosswise.
If your CPU cooler locks down onto the motherboard or retaining plate using four press-down posts (& la an LGA775 socket) or via four screws, attach or screw down the first post or screw, then the one diagonally opposite it--don't fasten two adjacent ones in a row. This will make installation vastly easier and also help spread the thermal paste more evenly.
Also, it helps, if the cooler uses screws, not to screw them down all the way the first time around. Screw in the first one just far enough so that it grips, and do the same for the rest. Once they've all gained purchase, tighten them down again in the same order as you attached them, this time all the way.
Four plus four is great: A four-pin CPU-fan header mated with a four-pin fan plug is the ideal match.
32. What to do if your CPU fan's plug doesn't match its motherboard connector.
It could be an alarming discovery: Your CPU's fan has either a three-pin or a four-pin power connector, but the "CPU Fan" header on your motherboard doesn't have the same number. But it's okay--either way, it will work.
The fourth pin is used for fan-speed control, so if you use a three-pin fan on a four-pin header, the fan will simply spin at a constant rate. (Same deal if you plug a four-pin fan into a three-pin header.) You'll only get the potential to activate variable speed control through software if both fan and motherboard employ a four-pin interface.
Even more important, though: Don't forget to plug in this connector, regardless of how many pins. You don't want your CPU to overheat, and it probably will--quickly--if the fan isn't running.
Might makes right: You may have to twist and press harder than seems safe to engage that LGA 775 post!
33. The secret to installing LGA775 CPU-cooler posts.
Some LGA775 CPU coolers--most notably, Intel's stock cooler that it provides with its processors--use push-and-twist "pop-in" posts that can be infuriating to install. Make sure the post's pegs are all in the "up" position before installing the cooler, with the arrow atop the posts rotated
when down, the peg will push through the hole in the motherboard, spreading a set of prongs and locking the cooler into place.
The problem is that you may have to use an alarming amount of downward force and twisting to get these pegs to engage. If you're installing the cooler with the motherboard outside the case, place the motherboard atop a wooden board or other hard surface with a hole drilled in it, centering the motherboard mounting hole over the hole in the board. This will give the motherboard some supportive backing while you force these pegs into place. Be sure to install them crosswise, per Tip 31.
Hush, little heat sink: This CPU fan’s low-noise adapter adjusts via a pin jumper.
34. Throttling your CPU fan can reduce noise but have unintended consequences.
Some CPU fans come with a "throttling adapter," often identified as a "low-noise adapter." It's an inline cable that runs between your CPU fan's power line and the "CPU Fan" the adapter forces your CPU fan to run slower and thus quieter. Consider installing it if you'd like to reduce your PC's noise output, but monitor your PC's operating temperature (see Tip 35) to make sure it's not throttling the fan too much. If you hear the CPU fan cycling alternately fast and slow in normal operation, a software or BIOS function in the PC may be adjusting the fan to compensate for the hamstrung speed and inadequate cooling performance--try removing the adapter.
Heat wiser: SpeedFan monitors temperatures from various points inside your case, relying on temperature-reporting circuitry.
35. A handy utility for tracking PC temperatures.
SpeedFan, a piece of freeware written by Alfredo Milani Comparetti, is an invaluable tool for checking the hardware health of a newly built PC. (Grab it from .) It reports temperatures from hardware-monitoring chips within your PC, such as your CPU die or hard drive. You'll have to do some sleuthing to determine which sensor governs which component, and
SpeedFan doesn't support every piece of hardware out there, but it's good for a quick-and-dirty read on how hot or cool your core components are running.
75 PC-Building Tips: CPU and Heat Sink Installation
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